What do you do when you’ve tried on many wedding dresses, but can’t seem to find “The One”? If you’re tall and slim, well you could wear just about anything, and look great. It’s not so easy though when you’re a bit shorter, hourglass shaped, or even pear shaped. Not to mention being over a size 16, now that’s a challenge.
The way to tackle this is by first establishing t
he best silhouette for your figure. I will outline the best design options for different figure shapes, with the aim of helping brides who are not a standard size (in my opinion, that’s about 90% of us!)
Hourglass shape: This is where the bust and hips are in proportion, and there is a defined waistline. Typically a girl who is hourglass shaped is a size 14 or over, with a full bust and shapely hips. Contrary to popular opinion, girls of this shape are very often paranoid of their bust and would love to reduce its size! Also of concern are the shapely hips. Girls, I have great news for you! The majority of styles look great on hourglass figures, provided you stick to a few basic rules.
DO wear strapless gowns, they look fantastic on shapely girls! You will obviously need extra support in the bust area, but it is worth the effort. The best look is strapless at the neckline, with an A-line skirt. Also a straight-through gown is best, as opposed to a two-piece gown. The two-piece will tend to cut you in half, which can accentuate the hourglass shape.
If you’re not keen on strapless, a V-neckline is extremely flattering on a full bust. The V-shape should be fairly low (as low as you’re comfortable with), as a higher neckline actually makes the bust appear even bigger. A particularly flattering look is an off-the-shoulder V-neckline. A scooped, off-the-shoulder neckline is also very appealing.
The best silhouette for the skirt of the dress is A-line, and can be quite full. As for whether you should have a train at the back or not, that is a matter of choice.
The current styles which have lots of draping or ruching on them, are an excellent choice for an hourglass-shaped bride. Despite what many may think, draping is very good at disguising the not-so-good bits, which we all want to hide.
DON’T go for straight or bias-cut designs! They are strictly for the tall, slim, or generally size 10 girls. The only case in which these designs would work on an hourglass figure is if the girl is reasonably tall. I recently made a bias-cut cowl neck wedding dress for a size 14 girl, who was about 5 ‘ 11” tall, and the style worked really well on her. But on the whole, bias cuts are a no-no for shapely girls. They are too clingy and will only accentuate the parts that you would rather hide.
Also, avoid gathered or pleated skirts, as they add bulk around the hips.
Pear-shaped figure: Similar rules apply as the hourglass shape. The idea here is to balance the top half with the bottom half of the body.
DO wear strapless and A-line gowns, as they are an excellent choice for a pear-shaped girl. The off-the-shoulder scooped or V-neckline is also a very good choice, with an A-line skirt, as it helps to balance the figure. Two-piece gowns are a good choice for this figure shape, as the bust is smaller than the hips. You can have quite an elaborate corset bodice with an A-line skirt, and it creates the illusion that the figure is in proportion. I know this sounds odd, but it really works!
As with the hourglass figure shape, pear-shaped girls can certainly wear gowns with draping and ruching, provided it is with an A-line skirt silhouette. The best draping option here is diagonal draping as it is the most flattering. Go for detailing in the bodice, as it will serve as the focus of the dress.
DON’T choose straight or bias-cut designs. They look awful on a pear-shaped girl, no exceptions! Even tall pear-shaped girls should steer clear of bias-cuts and straight designs, as they simply cannot hide your hips.
Also, stay away from halter-neck gowns as this design actually gives the appearance of even bigger hips. Steer clear of full gathered or pleated skirts as well, as this look adds bulk to the hips.
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